Kuta, Legian & Seminyak, Bali (18-20 Aug)

Ah, finally leaving Australia. Although I liked it very much and I will be going back there I am really looking forward to my trip around Asia.

The flight took about 3.5 hours from Perth in a 737-800 with Pacific Blue, a sister company of Virgin Air. Every seat had its own screen and while we were near Australia it even had live TV.

Landing in Ngurah Rai you get the usual temperature and humidity shock exiting the aircraft. After handing over 25 USD cash to be allowed into the country you can appreciate the “you are new here” overcharge for the taxi ride.

After having spent 4 month in dorm rooms I reckoned I will treat myself with a single room including air conditioning and a private bathroom. I figured the rate of 18 Euros was ok ;-). One of the highlights was a proper towel although it hadn’t seen a softener for a while. After 4 month of travelling with that microfabrics that was a real treat. Don’t get me wrong, the microfabric dries fast, is light weighted and very compact and so I wouldn’t buy a towel. Also, I don’t need a converter any more to charge my electronic devices.

The a/c wasn’t working properly but cooled the room to 5 degrees lower than outside and it was enough to sleep comfortably. 18 Euros may not sound much but you could also get a simple and basic room with shared bathroom for 4.5 Euros and so it will probably be the most expensive room I will have on Bali.

air conditioning switch - I dare you to touch it

Everybody who has been to Bali and especially to the Kuta area (most touristic region) knows that you are simply considered a walking ATM where everybody wants a withdrawal. Thus you cant walk 10 meters on the streets or on the beach without hearing somebody shout “ Hey boss, want to buy cheap [insert random stuff]. I make good price”. But if you just smile and say “no, thank you” they will at least not follow you. Every taxi that has no fare honks at you and so it is pretty noisy on the streets. Most important is always to keep cool and polite (saving face) and no matter how many people are around you, you are never in any physical danger. They just want to sell stuff to feed the kids.

Best attempt to get money from me was when a man approached me and asked me where I was from. Next he mentioned that his sister was going to Munich in two weeks and that I should provide some information where to stay and how things work in Germany. Without any further comment he grabs his cell and calls his sister. After a short summery of who I am, I was talking to some lady on the phone. She asked me if I could come to her place about 20 minutes away to tell her how to get started in Munich. Without any clear answer to whether I will be coming or not I handed the phone back to the bloke. (Initially I was inclined to help them but once I was supposed to get into some car it was clear to me that the ride would result in me being taken to numerous “very cheap shopping opportunities”). The guy told me he was in town alone to run some errands and that he would take me back to my hotel afterwards. Once he realised that this cash machine wouldn’t produce any money he said good bye quickly and got into a car which just stopped on the street. So much for being alone in town. The entire attempt to draw me into some scam was quite hilarious.

But it is not always like that. Walking down the beach I got waved over by some locals selling beer and cold soft drinks. After I didn’t wanna buy some beer I got introduced to everybody sitting around and the usual interrogation began: Where do you come from? How long are you in Bali? Once you have answered all these questions you are all of a sudden their best friend and they offer you a chair to sit and a fag.

The guy who waved me over worked in Munich for a year and although his German was just rudimentary, his English was quite fluent. And so I was sitting in a chair at the beach with an umbrella blocking the sun for free while everybody else had to pay for the lawn chairs.

If they know you wont buy any stuff off them and if they have some time to spare, they will be the nicest people and are really interested in getting to know you. I have encountered these situations quite often on Bali and so I always stop to speak with them if somebody calls me over. Most of them just want to sell stuff and send you on your way if you don’t purchase, but occasionally you get to meet such nice people.

The beach is really nice in Kuta and once you have bargained for the price of some lawn chairs or put your towel on the ground and after you told the vendors you wouldn’t be interested they actually leave you alone to enjoy the beach. In the evening hours just before sunset the beach turns into a massive strip of football games. Most of people are locals but you are always welcome to join.

sunset in paradise

On the first day I soaked up the atmosphere and worked out how things work on this island. I strolled around town and discovered the Memorial Wall for the victims of the 2002 bomb attack on Kuta. You might remember that there was also a memorial in Perth’ Kings Park.

Memorial Wall for the victims of the '02 bombing in Kuta

The next day I walked all the way up to Seminyak to see some temple before realizing you cant enter the temple without wearing a traditional Balinese outfit and there was nobody to rent it from. On the way back I stopped at the Sofitel pretending I belong here when passing security. I could not resist from jumping in the pool although I am not a guest. But since looking western is all you need to get full access to the establishment and a pleasant smile from all the staff, I took advantage of the conditions. I must say it is a gorgeous place to stay. Look at the pictures and tell me you don’t wanna stay there. Especially with the sunset on a beach full of palm trees.

Sofitel Seminyak main Pool

Sofitel fish pond

You might remember me complaining about the prices of simple things like bottled water in Australia. It seems like Bali is the place to be with a 1.5l bottle of water costing 0.31€ and a packet of Pall Mall 0.65€. Back home the difference between water and faqs is slightly bigger. I have often heard people say “you can live like a king in Asia” but I didn’t expect it to be that cheap.

I also have to mention some customs. The Balinese and probably all of south east Asia are really foot phobic. Showing somebody the bottom of your feet is like flipping the middle finger and therefore feet should stay on the ground. You don’t cross them (you could point at somebody with your foot) or put them on a table.

In the morning before people open their shops they spill water in front of the store for good luck. Also they give a small sacrifice to please the good.

When they are about to drink they spill a wee before drinking themselves.

People are amazingly adapted to the hot and humid climate. People repairing the streets wear long sleeved jacked over their t-shirts, long trousers and some don’t even bother to remove their bike helmet. I am just sweating watching them from my balcony.